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Minimizing Transplant Shock in Plants

As is often the way with gardening, you’ll plant a bush or a plant then decide you don’t like where it is placed, or think it would yield better results elsewhere. Whilst there are some plants that transplant and adapt really well, such as tomatoes, strawberries, and most succulents, many plants suffer from varying levels of transplant shock. Moreover, your plant may suffer with some form of transplant shock when you remove it from its plant pot if bought online or at a garden centre. Here, we’ll look into how to help minimise the transplant shock during the move and once planted.

Choose a Transplanting Time Wisely

It goes without saying that you should ensure that you choose your transplanting time wisely. Avoid transplanting in the summer, and avoid transplanting when the ground is frozen. The best time of year, broadly speaking is either spring or autumn, depending on the plant. Your plant should either be in the dormant phase if deciduous or whilst the soil is still warm or warming up for evergreen plants.

The best type of weather for transplanting is a slightly cool overcast day, as avoiding direct sunlight can reduce stress to the plant. If you really can’t avoid this type of weather then create a shade netting screen to protect the plant from direct sunlight for a day or two until it has settled in. This can help to prevent the plant from wilting or dying from lack of water. It is also really important to make sure that the roots aren’t exposed to the sun at all as they are quickly harmed by light and sunlight.

Match Conditions and Water the Plant in Advance

It is important to match the existing conditions the plant is in as best you can to help minimise transplant shock. Ensure that the soil type and drainage level, the amount of sunlight and watering levels are matched, at least until the plant has established itself.

A few hours before you are thinking of transplanting, water the soil thoroughly around the plant you are going to be moving thoroughly. This will help the plant to uptake some water before the stress of moving.

When transplanted, plants close up their stoma meaning they can’t absorb water from their leaves so watering in advance allows them to get a good drink before being moved. Moreover, if the soil around the plant is moist, it will cause less friction against the roots that can cause damage and helps the plant to recover better if the root ball is disrupted.

Be Careful with the Roots

This leads us into our next point – be very careful with the taproot. This is the main central root of the plant and is important for the plant’s health and growth. When digging up the plant, use a fork not a spade and dig very cautiously around the plants roots to avoid cutting the roots. It is likely some roots will be damaged but try to reduce the impact of this as much as possible.

Try to bring as many roots as you can to the new site as this will help give the plant its best chance of survival. Ensure that the hole you are placing the plant in is big enough for all the roots you are moving. A sure fire way to damage roots is by trying to shove a plant into too small a hole!

Sempervivum are really suitable for this type of display as they can be left outside all year, but for a display indoors I have also used small leaved foliage Begonia’s and non-hardy succulents such as Echeveria.      

Use Epsom Salt or a Root Booster

Epsom Salt can help a the roots of the transplanted plant overcome root shock by encouraging the plant to increase chlorophyll production which in turn aids a better nutrient absorption to promote healing. Mix in one tablespoon of Epsom salt into the soil in the hole just before you plant. Additionally, you can mix one to two tablespoons per 3-4 litres of water and use it to water fresh transplants. If you have a lot of new transplants, then work to a ratio of 5 gram per square metre.

Complete Soil Improver is also another good addition to your soil that can help when transplanting plants. It contains mycorrhizal fungi, gypsum, volcanic rock dust, zeolites, seaweed meal and humic, fulvic and amino acids to improve water retention and aeration in the soil as well as promoting plant regeneration and root growth – ideally mix in to the soil you will be transplanting into in advance.

Alternatively, you can use a root booster fertiliser such, Fish, Blood & Bone or Bone Meal to minimize the transplant shock. It also encourages the plant to develop stronger roots – ideally mix in to the new soil in advance.

Try to bring as many roots as you can to the new site as this will help give the plant its best chance of survival. Ensure that the hole you are placing the plant in is big enough for all the roots you are moving. A sure fire way to damage roots is by trying to shove a plant into too small a hole!

Sempervivum are really suitable for this type of display as they can be left outside all year, but for a display indoors I have also used small leaved foliage Begonia’s and non-hardy succulents such as Echeveria.      

Water Cautiously

Once transplanted, water the area around the plant gently. As the root system has been disturbed, the plant won’t have a strong root system be able to cope with over or under watering – a common when transplanting. After first planting, make sure the soil around the plant is moist but not sodden and you don’t water any of the trunk or stalk. If it hasn’t rained for a few days after planting, water the plants well at least once a week. You want to try to keep the plants evenly moist. A great way to tell if they need watering is by sticking your finger about an inch deep into the soil near the base of the plant. If it is moist, then it doesn’t need watering, if it is dry then it’ll need watering.

Try to bring as many roots as you can to the new site as this will help give the plant its best chance of survival. Ensure that the hole you are placing the plant in is big enough for all the roots you are moving. A sure fire way to damage roots is by trying to shove a plant into too small a hole!

Sempervivum are really suitable for this type of display as they can be left outside all year, but for a display indoors I have also used small leaved foliage Begonia’s and non-hardy succulents such as Echeveria.      

Support with Stakes

Support your transplanted plant, shrub or tree with two strong sturdy stakes or canes for the first two years after moving it to prevent wind rock and root movement that may cause it to fall over and the roots to become damaged or break entirely. This can be a particular danger if your plant is top heavy. The two stake method is best, place a strong stake or cane suitable for your species of plant at either side, 180 degrees apart and tie to the stalk or trunk with either rubber ties, soft tie tube or plant ties. Remove after two years to prevent the plant from developing a weak trunk.

Monitor your New Transplant

Keep a careful eye on your newly moved plant. It will likely suffer some form of transplant shock which isn’t uncommon. Don’t worry – new transplants usually need at least a whole growing season to adjust to their new environment to establish themselves and flourish. During this time, the best you can do if you have followed the above advice is to allow them to recover and check for any signs of pests or disease that could be a serious threat to your weakened plant. Examine your plant carefully, checking the leaves, trunk and base of the plant thoroughly for anything that could be a problem. If you notice anything that could be a problem, treat it immediately to avoid any major damage to your plant.

Provided you prepare well in advance, you are careful when transplanting and check your plant thoroughly for pests and disease once in situ, transplanting new or established plants should be a piece of cake!

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With over 35 years’ experience in Gardening and Horticulture here at Elixir Garden Supplies we pride ourselves on offering quality gardening essentials with the knowledge of how to use them and sold at the best possible prices.

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